Q. A few years ago the pressure regulator valve on our main water line failed and some water pipes in our home burst, causing considerable damage. We have a new valve but I worry about it failing also. How will I know if it fails and is there anything else I can do about this problem?
The water pressure coming into your house must be extremely high to cause a regulator valve to fail and pipes to burst. The usual symptoms of high water pressure are surging water from faucets and shower heads, leaking faucets, banging pipes and premature wear in faucets and malfunctions in some water-using appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers. Make sure you have high-pressure metal hoses on your washing machine; rubber hoses are highly vulnerable to high pressure.
The new valve should reduce the pressure in your pipes and fixtures to no more than 50 to 60 pounds per square inch, and should give you protection for many years. But if you experience symptoms like those described above, have the pressure checked immediately. I think you should also contact your water company about the problem; it is possible that adjustments can be made to reduce the pressure coming into your house. You might also check with neighbors to see if they are having similar problems. A series of complaints to the water company is more likely to produce some action if there is a neighborhood-wide problem.
Q. I have a damp wall in my basement. It isn’t leaking but is getting progressively worse. I have noticed water pooling outside that wall during heavy rains. If I build up the area around the outside of the wall with dirt, will that solve the problem? I run a dehumidifier in the basement year-round.
Sloping the ground around the wall so that water drains away from the foundation should definitely help. But also make sure your rain gutters are functioning properly and the downspouts are kept open. Use long leaders or downspout extensions to carry rain water well away from the foundation.
If that doesn’t help, while you haven’t mentioned a problem with cracks in the wall, check carefully for any cracks or gaps, and seal them with a caulking compound designed for masonry. Even if there is no actual seepage through the wall, you might find that you still need a dehumidifier to keep the moisture at bay. If there are still problems, more extensive water proofing work may be needed. Obtain an evaluation from a qualified water proofing contractor, but beware of recommendations for major work that is only designed to remove water that seeps in, rather than preventing it from infiltration to the inside. In many cases, it is more practical to take one step at a time in eliminating water problems.
Q. We have dark wood paneling in our living room. We would like to make the room brighter with either paint or wallpaper. Can this be done?
Pre-finished wall paneling can be either painted or wallpapered if the correct preparation and application techniques are followed. To paint, nail down any loose joints or edges and scrub the surface with an ammoniated detergent to remove any old wax or polish. Rinse by sponging (but not saturating) with clear water and let dry. Prime the paneling with a glossy-surface primer. Finally, apply one or two coats of acrylic-latex wall paint.
The grooves in the paneling will still be visible, but will be much less conspicuous. Some people fill the grooves with wallboard joint compound or spackling, and then sand it flush before painting. This is a tremendous amount of work and the results will often be disappointing.
To wallpaper, prepare and clean as described above and remove moldings at the top and bottom of the panels. Apply a heavy-duty liner or backing paper, sold at wallpaper stores (this will span the grooves and result in a smooth surface). After the liner dries, apply regular wallpaper in the usual way. Paint the moldings to match and reinstall.
Q. The galvanized water pipes in our older house are apparently filled with mineral deposits and rust. Water flow in faucets is only a trickle. Can anything be done about this short of replacing the pipes?
Pipe replacement is the usual remedy for severe clogging. Before doing that, however, try a couple of other things. Check the shutoff valves to your faucets to make sure they are fully open; the valves are usually located in pipes under the sinks. Also make sure the main water valve, near the meter or pump, is fully open. Finally, remove and clean your shower head and the aerators in your faucets by soaking them in vinegar for several hours to dissolve minerals.
If these measures don’t help, and your water is supplied by a water company, ask the company to check the water pressure where the water enters your house. If you have a well pump, get a plumber to check or adjust the pressure. A pressure of 45 to 50 pounds per square inch is good. If the incoming pressure is low and the water company or plumber can’t improve it, a pressure-boosting pump might solve the problem.
If you have adequate pressure at the entry point and are still getting only a trickle at faucets, and the valves are all okay, then full or partial pipe replacement may be the answer. Often the hot water and horizontal lines are the first to develop water blocking mineral buildup.